Cristoforo Buondelmonti, Description of the Archipelago, translated from his medieval Latin manuscripts by Benedetta Bessi and annotated for Wikidata places and persons by Brady Kiesling using ToposText, kastra.eu, the island maps of Anavasi and other geographic resources. Some of Buondelmonti's maps are viewable online at Travelogues.gr; more intelligible versions of these maps are to be found in the 1485 Isolario of Bartolommeo dali Sonetti. Buondelmonti's knowledge of history, mythology, and Greek is patchy; his stories are often garbled, his Greek etymologies hopeless. East and west are occasionally switched, and scribal errors make some names unintelligible.
By Cristoforo Buondelmonti, Florentine priest.
I decided, most reverend cardinal Giordano, to dedicate to you an illustrated book about my travels in the Cyclades and the other islands scattered around together with all the deeds that happened there since the old times until today. And after I visited them all in six years going through the dangers of the infidels and a few storms, at the end of my youth and having left Florence, my city, I moved to the the most pleasant city of Colossi (Colocensem) (Rhodes) to put an end henceforth to my labors and to ascending other’s stairs here and there. Therefore after some knowledge of Greek letters opened up for me, the love of your generosity came quickly to the ears of your humble servant. And after it stuck to the entrance of my mind, it is retained so that it can be remembered for ever by this book, newly rearranged by me and sent to you.
So please accept a little gift sent from long travels, in which you will find briefly narrated many stories of our fathers and great deeds of ancient heroes, that compiled together come to life. In addition, you will see mountains with springs and nymphs walking down together though pastures and fields and goats wandering everywhere on dry rocks. Lastly you will know ports with promontories with the islets that stand near them and towns and the seas open up in between them.
Let’s bring our introduction to an end altogether, father, and let’s list in order the names of all the islands and the places of which we are about to speak, so that the itinerary may disclose without labour to those reading further. I will take my beginning from Corfu (Kerkyra) which today is considered by many the first island of Greece to the west and then Pachisos (Paxos), Leucata (Lefkada), Dulichia (Ithaca), Cephalonum (Kefalonia), Iacinthus (Zakynthos), Strophades (Strofades), Sapientia (Sapientza), Chituria (Kythira), Sequilus (Antikythera), Creta (Crete), Carpathos (Karpathos), Rodos (Rhodes), Simie (Symi), Charistos (Halki), Dilos (Tilos), Caria (Nysiros), Astimphalea (Astypalaia), Egala (Santorini), Sicandros (Sikinos), Policandros (Folegandros), [Polimnio] (Polyaigos), Milo (Milos), Siphanos (Sifnos), Serfinos (Serifos), Thermie (Kythnos), Cea (Kea), Andros, Caloieros (Kalogeroi), Tino (Tinos), Michono (Mykonos), Delos, Suda (Syros), Paros, Antiparos, Panaya (Despotiko), Naxos, Podia (Koufonisia), Raclea (Irakleia), Chero (Keros), Nio (Ios), Anaphios (Anafi), Brupot (Amorgos), Chinera (Kinaros), Levata (Levitha), Chaloieros (Kalogeroi?), Choa (Kos), Claros (Kalymnos), Herro (Leros), Patinos (Patmos), Dipsi (Argelousa?), Crussie (Arki?), Icarea (Icaria), Mandria (Leipsoi?), Agatusa (Agathonisi), Formacus (Farmakonisi), (Samo (Samos), Furni (Fourni), Tenosa (Oinousses), Psara, [Chio] (Chios), Lesbos, Tenedos (Tenedos), Galipolis (Gelibolu), Marmora (Marmara), Calonimo (Imrali), Scopuli caloierorum (Princes’ islands), Polis (Constantinople), Stinlumni (Lemnos), Embaros (Imbros/Gökçeada), Mandracchi (Samothrace), Taxo (Thasos), Mons Sanctus (Holy Mountain/Mount Athos), Sanstradi (Agios Efstratios), Limen (Kyra Panagia), Dromos (Alonissos), Macri (Peristera), Schiati (Skiathos) and Scopuli (Skopelos), Sanctus Elyas (Skantzoura), Schiros (Skyros), Egrippos (Euboea) and Egina (Aegina).
Now it remains, father, to show the general details and the provinces placed all around with the expanse of the seas, and those who ruled on them today. As a matter of fact, it is called archipelagos almost as if to say master of the sea. From Rhodes in a straight line to Cape Maleas 450 miles and from Crete to Tenedos 500 miles, in which all the sea of the archipelago is contained. Adjacent to this sea is Asia Minor in which lie the provinces of Cilicia, Pamphilia, Phrygia and Betulia.
But after the Turks occupied it for a long time, it took the name Turkey from them, who raided through the defenseless cities but now peoples are governed by them peacefully. To the west, after the sea crosses the Hellespont, Greece immediately extends itself as a plain and quite fertile in everything up to Andrinopoli (Adrianoupolis), going from the left toward the province of Thessalonike (Salonica), it appears well populated. When we leave behind the cities and the region and arrive to high mountains, quickly one passes on the other side to Euboea and the region of Athens of which great part is occupied by the Turks.
They claim that the Aegean is so called after king Aegeus, father of Theseus. It begins from the Hellespont and washing many gulfs stretches out up to Cape Maleas. Cyclos in Greek is circulus in Latin and here the round islands among the rocks of this archipelagos are called Cyclades. Once we have completed the general divisions of this description, we shall go back to the details of the aforesaid islands, in which if you count their red letters, you will discover my name and your name and in what place and time I composed this work. For this reason, so that you can comprehend everything, the mountains extend openly in black, the plains in white and the waters in green.
This island which is presented first, was once called Kerkyra or Korkyra after a king, and is today called Corfu, and has a perimeter of about 100 miles. Its southern part is mountainous and, on its mountains, the oak trees bear fruit. On the
Virgil: We skirt the shores of Epirus, enter the
On this island Titus Quintus Flamininus made a stop to proceed more safely to the Roman army when he was going to make war against Philip of Macedon.
Above Korkyra towards the east lies the island of Pachisos (Paxos), with a circumference of ten miles. Here there is an unfortified village inhabited by few because of the attacks by the Turks. Then the centre is flat and fertile towards the east, with vines and fruit trees. It also has a safe port. This island, they say, was attached long ago to Korkyra. However, because of the frequent storms caused by Neptune and Aeolus, the land-bridge between the two islands is now sea, and on that side Korkyra is being diminished by night and by day.
Our boat moved on 100 miles eastwards and we approached the ancient Mount Leukos. Again because the sea has ebbed and flowed for a long time between it and the nearby hills four times a day, an island of 80 miles was created. Among shady valleys, it is irrigated by many springs and in its middle part there a plain is surrounded by farms. Here a great number of herds are to be seen. Towards the east there is an enclosed port and, continuing north, we find another port, safer and adorned by mountains, woods and springs. Without going much further on, there is a very abundant spring on the coast where both travellers and inhabitants can cool themselves down. To the left at the foot of the mountains we see a very ancient and long-ruined city, where there once was an ancient shrine of Apollo. And here Aeneas coming from Troy left the weapons taken from Abas.
Virgil: Soon, too, Mount Leukata’s storm-capped peaks come into view, and Apollo’s shrine, dreaded by sailors. Hither we wearily sail, and draw near the little town.
Then many centuries later, Octavian Caesar restored this ruined city, which was called Nikopolis [“city of victory”], and here built a temple of Apollo, after defeating Antony and Cleopatra in this place.
Virgil: On this side [of the shield] Caesar Augustus leading the
Within sight of this, there is a tower in the sea, not far from which one can see a fortified town with a bridge. Here an unhealthy wind blows. In these places a large plain opened out. If you proceed north, you come across a wood and the Ambracian gulf. Finally, to the east there are some uninhabited islands where monks once lived but which have now gone to ruin because of pirate attacks.
We have described Lefkada. We now continue to Dulichia, called Ithaca long ago but now known as Val di Compare, surrounded by high cliffs. This island is mountainous and useless apart from a small plain in the center with some trees and huts. There are a number of ports around it. From east to west it measures 30 miles, and in width three miles. The extremities of the island open up in two horns, dangerous by night to seafarers. It was here, as they say, that Odysseus, that most eloquent of the Greeks, who had a solution for almost everything, took Penelope, daughter of Ithakos, as his wife and from her had a son, Telemachus. However, when Helen was carried off by Paris, he was forced to go to Troy and so he pretended to be insane and, when Palamedes came to Ithaca, he yoked animals of different kinds to the plough and was found ploughing salt. But Diomedes, suspecting him of trickery, tested the state of his mind by catching little Telemachus and placing him in front of the plough. However, when Odysseus saw his son, he immediately moved the plough to the side. Thus discovered, Odysseus was forced to go to war. After the capture of Troy, he competed with Ajax and thanks to his eloquence won the armor of Achilles. After leaving Troy, he tried to get back to his home country but, tossed by many storms, he was blown off course for ten years of lengthy mistakes and travels. Finally, after much suffering on his voyage, he arrived back at this island and after fighting off the suitors of Penelope inside his own house, he died not long after.
Virgil: We flee past the rocks of Ithaca, Laertes’ realm, and curse the land that nursed cruel Odysseus.
So much about Ithaca. Let us start on Kephalonia, once called Cephalonum, and completely mountainous. Kephali in Greek, meaning in Latin caput (head), because to those sailing from the south it seems round like a human head; or because from the time of the
Virgil: Now amid the waves appear wooded Iacynthus, Dulichium,
and Sami, and
We have spoken of Kephalonia. Now we shall talk about Iakinthos (Zakynthos). It was called Iakinthos either from a certain ruler or from a flower, since it is fertile and pleasant. It is located opposite the Corinthian Gulf; they say that the founders of Saguntum left from this island for Spain. Saguntum was a noble walled city, very friendly to the
Virgil: Now amid the waves appears wooded Iacinthus.
It only remains for me, father Giordano, to describe to you some venerable rocks in the Ionian sea, which were much cursed of old, known as Plotai, being one mile in circumference. They used to be called Echinades, from echinoi (sea urchins), fish in the nearby river Acheloos. Later they were called the Strophades from the Greek strophe, Latin reversio (turn or return). On these islands there is a community of monks who lead a harsh life, existing only on fish and water. And since they were once all captured and sold by the pirates, the modern inhabitants, in order to contemplate the way of the Lord safely, built a tower where they lead a hermit’s life and united in a group of more than 50 people of every origin they are invigorated. This island, together with a smaller one nearby, in the time of Phineus, king of Arcadia, was inhabited by pirates; it is clear that they knew that Phineus, persuaded by their stepmother, Arpalica, had blinded his children; to avenge this crime they chased him all the way to Arcadia and led him into misery. They were driven off by Cetus (Zetes) and Calais, the brothers of Arpalica; they freed Phineus from the pirates and chased them to these islands. Therefore these young men called them Strophades, that is to say they changed the return into islands. When Aeneas, fleeing Troy for Italy, stopped here, and was eating with his companions, the Harpies, sent from Arcadia to live on these islands, either stole their food with their talons or they polluted them with their filthy touch. When the Harpies were sent away by the sword, Celaeno, the greatest of them, spoke as follows:
Virgil: To Italy you shall go and freely enter her harbours; but you shall not gird with walls your promised city until dread hunger and the wrong of violence towards us force you to gnaw with your teeth and devour your very tables.
They are called Harpies from their voracity, since here a large group of pirates attacked all the people who came here with greed and plundering.
Virgil: Saved from the waves, I am received first by the shores of the Strophades – Strophades the Greek name they bear – islands set in the great Ionian sea, where dwell dread Celaeno and the other Harpies, since Phineus’ house was closed on them, and in fear they left their former tables. No monster more baneful than these, no fiercer plague or wrath of the gods ever rose from the Stygian waves. Maiden faces have these birds, foulest filth they drop, clawed hands are theirs, and faces ever gaunt with hunger.
These islands are now transformed from evil to good and while in the past sailors kept them at a distance, they now happily approach them with devoted prayers. On these islands there is a tower with a church and at the canonical hours the monks meet inside it, and the Hegoumenos, that is, the abbot, reads the lives of the saints in front everyone. Now what type of life they conduct, it is up to you to assess, father, as it is certainly considered very harsh since they have a limited space of one mile and are eight hundred stadia away from the mainland. Here meat is not eaten and they are happy to sustain life on fish, which is often sun-dried, and dry bread and water so that everybody may give back his life to the Highest unstained.
I arrive at Sapientza opposite the city of Modon (Methoni). It appears small and unproductive and it is called Sapientzia (Wisdom) because a passing ship would wisely protect itself from the hidden sea rocks or because here a Greek woman who lived there used to disclose the future to those passing by means of incantations. In its center rises a mountain from which the people of Modon watch a sailboat from afar so that it becomes known to those in the surrounding regions. To the east are some uncultivated islands, inhabited by goats. On the smaller of these islands, at the time of Murad the great of the Turks, one bireme of infidels landed there and attacked immediately the church. When they surrounded it and heard the monk singing, no door of the church was to be found and they remained there until the morning. But, at daylight, fearing the attacks of the Christians, they were not able to leave from the shore until they had repaired the damages to the monk. Across these above mentioned islands there are two cities: the first, Modon, very rich in the liquor of Bacchus, the second, Corone (Koroni), crowned by the liquor of the goddess Pallas [olive oil]. Both are part of the province of Morea, once called Peloponnese from Pelops, the son of king Tantalus. As Barlaam says, Pelops was a man of battles and great distinctions, who, while ruling on Phrygia, led a war against Oenomaus, king of Elis and Pisa. He started a great war and came into possession of Hippodamia. At last while he was ruling Argos, he named the
Kythera: It looks superfluous to me recounting how many rocks appear around here since we do not find for them any fact to single out. So we shall keep quiet about them and we shall approach the island Chityria (Kythira) or Cythaream, which today is called Citri where it is counted as the first island of the archipelago in the west. It consists mostly of mountains. among which the walled town Citeron is clearly visible, where Venus is worshipped with honor, and from which both Venus and the island took the name. She was sculpted as a very beautiful maiden, naked, and swimming in the sea while holding a marine shell with her right hand, adorned with roses and accompanied by doves flying around. She was married to Vulcan, god of fire, rustic and very base. In front of her stood three naked girls, who are called the Graces, two of which turned their faces at her, the other was turned in the opposite direction. Also standing next to her was Cupid, her son, winged and blind, who with the arrow and the bow was shooting Apollo. For this reason, upset with the gods, the timid boy ran to his mother’s lap. This planet is of feminine complexion, and like a girl, it is warm and humid. Married to Vulcan who is said to be fiery, and immersed in the sea because she is mixed with heat and humidity, she bore Cupid, god of love, that is the desire of the flesh. Three maidens, that is three sins, avarice in profiting from the sexual act, carnality in mating in a carnal act, infidelity because they teach to love a man for money. Winged because he gets inflamed quickly and mates, blind because he does not care where he seeks his pleasure. From this island Paris took Helen, the not unwilling wife of Menelaus, who on a festive day had come to a temple located near the sea and known until today. And here when they looked at each other, the beauty of both gave origin to the rape. And once they completed the deed, great destruction followed. Following this rape, all the Greek leaders unanimously swore to destroy Troy. And after they often demanded her back in vain, under the command of Agamemnon and with a large army they took Ilion (Troy) after 10 years and Helen was given back to Menelaus. He, together with her, diverted by a storm at sea, was first brought to Egypt and then they went back to Lacedemon (Sparta). The island has a circumference of 60 miles in which few people live and around it some rocks appear with very fresh water, called Draconarie (Dragonera).
We can measure the short distance from here to Sichilum (Antikythera). The island has a circumference of 10 miles and in it there was once a town but since now it is full of wild asses, nobody lives in it. If you sleep on the hide of a wild ass, you will not be afraid of demons. You will cure epilepsy, if you keep the skin of an ass’s brow over yourself or if you drink a potion made from the hooves or if you carry a ring. In the same way fumigations made from them helps a woman in labour, if you offer a drink made from the scraping of a stone from the head or the jaw to a feverish person, he will be relieved. If you drink the blood from the ear or you make an ointment, with the juice of snakeweed and rose oil, and you apply it on the loins before the onset of a quartan fever, you will stay healthy. Contracted limbs of a dry humor will relax if they are washed with the broth of their meat, and if they are anointed with the broth of a female ass and with the fat. This is also good on scars and the bone marrow for the nerves. Once some Turks, coming here, were shipwrecked. When the
Although everything that I am going to narrate here is a repetition of what I said in the book which I wrote on Crete, here for the reader’s convenience, I will briefly divide the island in three parts. This island is located in the middle of the Mediterranean sea, flanked by mountains on almost all sides and windswept from all sides. From east to west, it measures 230 miles and it is 35 miles wide. To the east mount Salmon which looks toward the island of Carpatho (Karpathos). To the west rises mount Corycis which faces toward Cape Maleas. It was named Crete after Nebrus’s son [Chrysos
Virgil: An island rises in mid-sea, Crete, great Jove's land,
where first Mount Ida rears, the cradle of our people.
The
I talked about Crete, now I come to Carpathos (Karpathos), carpos in Greek fructus (fruit) in Latin: also called Pallene from the son of the Titan who was ruling here. Pallas got the name from the island because she, previously known as Minerva, the goddess of wisdom, born from the brain of Jupiter, was nurtured here. She was represented in the guise of a woman in armour, the head surrounded by a rainbow, [wearing] a helmet with a crest, a lance in her right hand and in the left a crystalline shield with the monstrous Gorgon; her garments are three colors, next to her an olive tree with an owl on top of it. So she was armed as the wise man is armed with virtues, the shield of fortitude, the lance of rectitude and justice, the helmet of sobriety and temperance, the rainbow of clarity and prudence, the olive tree of piety and mercy, the owl of humility and secrecy. The three coloured garments, the three theological virtues, the shining shield the splendor of truth. The terrible image, the fear of God, the Gorgon the image of death or of the devil, the crest [symbol] of honor. This was formerly the country of Iapetus, who had two sons: Epimetheus and Prometheus, of great intelligence and strong endeavour, who is said to have formed a likeness of man from mud. And Minerva, delighted, brought Prometheus to heaven so that, if he wanted something heavenly to perfect his work, he could get it. He then stole a spoke from the chariot of the Sun, inserted it in the chest of statue, and brought it to life. For this reason, he was struck by lightning by Jupiter and tied up on Mount Caucasus, to let his liver be perpetually gnawed at by a vulture. Actually, studying the nature of man on Mount Caucasus, Prometheus initially thought it was made of earth. Coming to its other nature, he understood that the soul comes from the sky, and whose power the heavenly origin stolen in the sun's spoke/ray, that is guiding him toward celestial things for consolation. That a vulture or eagle gnaws the liver is nothing else than that studious men spoil their outward appearance and consume their inward parts.
There were seven towns, of which three are still to be found in the mountains. The island has a circumference of 70 miles; to the east the city of Olimbo (Olympos) stands out with the port of Tristomos (Tristomos) and the rock islet Sario (Saria). To the west in the port of
So I come to the very ancient city of Rhodes, a refuge for the masters of Asia Minor, and once Greece, now Turkey, and of all the merchants and pilgrims, coming here from every part of the world. It is called Rhodo in Greek, rosa (rose) in Latin, because roses are found here in greater perfection than in other parts. Or it is called Rhodi from the pomegranate, because it was so full of men, and it is spread out in the form of a shield, from
Now indeed the city is small in comparison to the ancient one. It is oriented to the east and is divided in four parts, in the first of which resides the Master of the
The laws of the sea appear to have had origin from here and here was born Apollonius who wrote abundantly in Greek about the eight parts of oratory from which Priscianus took much and adapted it to his own work. Finally Tullius (Cicero) arriving in this city found the most eloquent philosophers of the Greeks, and in front of them and the people, he delivered a very famous oration and for this reason he acquired extravagant praise from the
Symi: In the time of Saturn this island was called Simie (Symi) from the Simeni who were ruling here or from simane in Greek, in Latin propinqua (near), since it was close to Asia Minor and trading with its neighbours, they obtained a living from their labours. But later Prometheus, the son of Iapetus, sent here by the great Jupiter, demonstrated many things to the inhabitants useful to preserve human life. He, being strong in ingenuity, created a man from mud. When Jupiter heard it, he transformed him in a monkey (simia) and here he ended his life. And thus the very resourceful people inhabiting this island today travel in their boats between the cities of the Turks and the
Halki: Not far from the island mentioned above, another island is seen, once called Caristos, now Chalchis in which the Titans ruled and the inhabitants established divine rites to their son Briareus; and few inhabited it through times because it is too arid and unproductive. Therefore mortals did not care to erect buildings. On it there are figs whose quantity is so abundant that the ships sailing around it, fertilize other places. To the east lies a port at whose summit is seen an ancient town and strongly fortified. And Saint Nicholas, tired from the voyage, settling here taught to these people the way to rectitude. By their prayers he has granted such grace that safe and constantly laboring to dig with iron tools in these arid and rocky mountains, they are not diminished. From that time to today they are maintained untouched and they consider them to be rich dowries for their daughters. For this reason they have built a church in his honor rich in gold and silver which they care to manage with their heart and soul.
Tilos: We have shown Calchi, now I will prepare the crossing to what was once Diliphanos, today Piscopia (Tilos). Diliphanos is Greek, which is translated omnibus apparentibus (everything appearing), Piscopia in Greek from epi which means supra (above), and scopos speculatur (looking out), as almost super speculatrix (high watcher), since it is quite elevated in the mountains, and it is very visible from afar. It stretches from east to west and its circumference is 35 miles. To the east rises a wooded mountain at whose foot there are two sea rocks, one of which is called
Nisyros: I have shown the site of Piscopia (Tilos), now I am able to point out to what was once Caria, now Nixaros with its volcanic mountain. Caridi in Greek, nux (walnut) in Latin. Now nixos in Greek is translated insula (island) in Latin. Here when the consul Flamininus was on his way back from the east and getting ready to fight against the Gauls, it was predicted that he would obtain a victory, and this in fact came to light. For this reason this island was always considered favorable to the
Now I will prepare my course to what was once Scimphalea, today Stampalea (Astypalaia), and, as Plinius says, Stimphalea was a free city with a circumference of 89 miles. And furthermore Ovid:
“He [Minos, Metamorphoses 7.457] joined Anafi and Astypalia to his cause, Anaphe by promises and Stimpalea by war” and
“Astimphalea lies here, surrounded by the fish-filled sea” [Ars Amatoria 2,82]
It is very narrow in the middle and wide in the ends, in which several abandoned castles are visible. To the north the town of Vathi. To the southwest appears the city called Stimphalea (Astypalaia). Around the island there also are antiquities of many towns, and around the coast excellent harbours are enclosed. And desolated since long time by the pirates they lie everywhere until today without fortifications. At the time of the Turk Morbassanus (Umur Pasha), the pirates assembled a large fleet and destroyed these islands to the ground. For this reason it was abandoned by its inhabitants. Only that noble
Thera: The ancients and most of all Pliny testify that this island was called Egasa, then Filetera from
While we saw this, we started the itinerary toward Sicandrum (Sikinos). And it is called Sicandros from the abundance of figs which once produced fruits here. σύκα Sica in Greek, it is translated ficus (fig) in Latin. It is very mountainous and since ancient times until now it remained uncultivated both because of the attacks by the Turks and the pirates and because the laziness of the neighboring countrymen and the inconvenience of the port. In this island donkeys abandoned by chance wandering through the rugged banks are captured with great labor. They say that in this place a certain
The following island is called Policandros (Folegandros), named after a plant very efficacious for the falling sickness. Or it is called poli civitas (city), and andros homines (men) the city of people or city of men. It is clear from the name that is was inhabited even if through the centuries many of the houses and the fortifications were reduced to nothing. It has a circumference of 20 miles with small trees and green grass. It happened that while an hermit served God for a long time and was living in a cave, the infidels suffocated him with fire. And as they wanted to leave, a voice was heard: you killed an innocent man and favorable to me, You will go but it is not possible to get by without a penalty. And while he explained this, he thrust his sword through the guilty ones and overthrew the wrongdoers. He let the surviving ones go back home and they, telling the miracle devotedly, converted to the Christian faith.
It is said that this island Polimio (Polyaigos) was never inhabited. But even if in certain places is wooded, the visible forms of houses show that men once lived on it. But now it is not known what human activity happened here in antiquity. Indeed it happened that a Turkish bireme was directed to the island and the men approached it to capture goats, Aeolus sent out from the cave Boreas and quickly turn the boat against hidden rocks which, miserable to be seen, sank into the deep. And when their fellows saw this, they broke into a long lament and in the space of 20 days they all gave their souls to Muhammed. It has a circumference of 28 miles and on it falcons feed their chicks each year.
Melos: I read, my father Giordano, that in many Greek annals that there is no agreement on the name of the island. And first Aristotle calls it Melida on which name Pliny agrees on the ground of the abundance of honey on the cavernous mountains. Gorgias Zephira from that wind which prevails in that place. Callimachus
I have discussed Milos. Let us now move onto Siphanos (Sifnos). Siphanos in Greek, Surbo in Latin. When you walk through it, you go through mountains and on arid paths in the company of wild goats. Its perimeter is about 40 miles. On the east on a hill near
I resume from Serfino (Serifos), which is totally mountainous and measures 40 miles in circumference. It is named after sersi, in Latin a plant good for pain in the kidneys, which is found here. Or it is named after
After the above-mentioned island, there is the island called Thermia (Kythnos), which is named from thermos in Greek, in Latin tepidum (warm). It is very mountainous and its perimeter is 40 miles. To the east Saint Irini is visible where there is a plain at whose head the city of Thermia rises above. The Turks, through the treachery of a slave, destroyed the city at night after capturing the citizens. Now, however, it is well populated. To the west, there is the church of Saint Luke (Agios Loukas), and excellent ports. There was once a city adorned with buildings. On a mountain almost in the middle of the island there is a tower (Pyrgos) from which a stream of water flows to the sea and here begins the plain of Apocreos (Apokrousi). And to the south a gulf and the plain of Piscopi (Piskopi)is visible and nearby the plain of Merca (Merichas) is located. It is rich in wine, grain, silk and meat product. Here once the Turks spent the night near the city in the port when two galleys of the Cretans arrived during a night storm. In the morning the Christians attacked them violently and sent all of them to hell.
Now I cross over to Cea (Kea) named after Ceus (Coeus), a Titan and son of the earth, who lived with extravagant ferocity and pride. He with his brothers rose up against Jupiter. After the battle between them had lasted a long time, they were expelled by the above mentioned Juppiter from the island of Crete and from then on their power was diminished. For this reason, Ceus, the oldest of the brothers, came to this island where he fathered Latona and Asteria, most beautiful maidens, about whom I omit the many things that should be said. It is mountainous and 50 miles in circumference. To the west there is a port and between it and a castle there is a plain where wild beasts roam free. There is the town of Iulide (Ioulis), which had an ancient ritual according to which those worn out by old age or fallen sick ended their life with poison. Such death was celebrated with the highest praises. When Sextus Pompey, on his way to Asia, landed on these shores, driven by storms, he heard about a certain matron, venerated for her age and virtues. He went to her and urged her at length not to take the poison. She, lying on her bed with her kinswomen around her, spoke these words to Pompey: “I am in my ninety-fifth year, and fortune has always shown me her smiling face and made my womb fertile and, as it often happens, for a sudden change of fortune, I might experience a calamitous end of life. Thus while my life is happy, death will be happier. And accepting permission from all and, having called constantly upon the gods, she died and her spirit quickly flew away from its prison. Here there is also a spring whose waters make men who drink it dull of sense, and after it is digested, the mind is restored to its original state of health. Near here to the west toward Tainaron and the Peggaseum gulf (Pagasitic gulf) and the Mirteum sea (Myrtoan sea) there are many reefs and uncultivated islands. I shall place the names of some others without any further narration: Syra or Sidra (Syrna?), Macroniso,
It is evident that this island is called with many names as the philosophers say: first Myrsilus [calls it] Cauros, Callimacus Antandron, others Lagia, Nonagria, Idrussa from the many springs, and Pliny calls it Pagrim. But is it is called Andros from [Andros] the son of king Anius. It appears noble and quite beautiful and very rich in waters producing everything for the human nature. It is all mountainous and its perimeter measures 80 miles and to the east a city is inhabited without a port. To the west [east] appears a small island with an ancient settlement, to which they access with a stone bridge with large buildings. On the sea next to the coast a tower is visible in which the people from the around spent the night to be safe from the pirates. It is said that the daughters of king Anius fled here and the following is reported about them by Ovid: Bacchus gave them the power so that everything they touched was transformed to grain, wine and oil, when Agamemnon learnt this, he forced them to supply the army that he was leading to Troy. They fled to their brother but he decided to betray them in the hands of Agamemnon. While Agamemnon was preparing the chains, they, stretching their arms to heaven, asked Liber Pater for help and were transformed into doves. The truth of the matter is that the daughters of king Anius had great skills in improving their fields so that they abound with great quantity of everything and they became rich. Having discovered this, Agamemnon seized everything from them for his army and from rich they became poor and as luxury loving doves earning their living from the public by the trade of the goddess Venus. What used to be done on this island, is shown by the remains: although nothing else but huge and magnificent sculptures are found everywhere. Especially the god Mercury appears winged a staff surrounded by snakes in his hands having a cap on his head and a rooster and head of a dog in front of him. Winged because the star of Mercury makes its course very swiftly. A sleep-inducing staff since because of the sweetness of his words a man falls asleep, a dog’s head since in eloquence barking which is speaking attracts men. On his head the hat with a rooster since the merchant is eager with his business here and there and change his mind at his will. The
Between Chios and Andros, a towering rock called Caloierus (Kalogeroi) stands out alone with very rough cliffs. From calos in Greek, in Latin bonus (good) and gherus, senex (old), which is good old man. Therefore, Caloierus is understood as an antiphrasis (opposite expression) since it is very evil and it results very dangerous to the seafarers at all times. For this reason, the ships passing by at night often sink against it. Here in my days a
Tenos: Aristotle calls it Idrusa, which in Latin sounds like aquatica (watery) on account of the abundance of waters. Demosthenes and Aeschines call it fiussam. Today it is called Tino (Tinos) derived from its round shape in the form of a vat. It is near to Andros and it measures 40 miles in perimeter. In the area there are two rock islands. On this island long ago a sorceress after she saw the enemies getting closer to the city to destroy it, climbed up onto the height and naked with her hair spread out, and extending her arms to the sky, made incantations so that the wind Africus rising abruptly against them sank their fleet into the depths. The great part of them escaped onshore but after drinking potions were made senseless by incantations and spells. They were sold here into slavery and the citizens were made rich. At the time of Alexander the city was famous, later they were exterminated by the
After I talked about Tino, we approach Michono (Mykonos) in antiquity named after a king or micos (μήκος) in Greek, longitudo (length) in Latin or paululum (very little) since it is contained in a small place. It was once very splendid as is attested by the buildings, since Delos is near and the many pilgrims in order to visit the statue of the god once a year, sought a place to stay here. And when the Turks once attacked the island, they found a monk, a man of God worshipping in a cave. And while they were making a great noise trying to capture him, the cave collapsed down and all but the monk died. This island is called one of the Cyclades, located in the Aegean sea with a perimeter of 30 miles. It has a port with a very ancient jetty, to the south, Saint Stephan (Agios Stefanos),
Virgil: (Delos) wandering was bound to Mykonos and lofty Gyaros
It remains to address the island of Delos, which is often mentioned by the authors and shone out the most famous in the midst of the Cyclades. Antiquity declares that it was once mobile and it was called in many ways. Delos, Asteria, Corana, Midia, Lagia, Cineto, Pirpile and it is called Sdile. The poets had the following story: Jupiter raped Lato, the daughter of the Titan Ceus. Juno when she realized she was pregnant of him, she sent down Python to pursue her and because he pursued her, she was made to flee from all the regions. However, [welcomed] by her sister Asteria transformed into an island. After she arrived ashore, she gave birth. By killing Python, Apollo avenged the offenses to the mother. They say that Apollo offered to the mother giving birth to Diana the office of midwife. Therefore they have it so that the women giving birth to children invoke the virgin Diana under the name of Lucina, the one who brings to light. Diana in the witness of almost all poets was the daughter of Jupiter and Lato. The ancient wanted her to be noteworthy for her eternal virginity. Having disdained every marriage, she devoted herself to hunting. She chased the wild beasts at night by moonlight and with her coldness she drove out amorous desires. Having observed these facts about her, the ancients believed that she was the moon and they associated the moon with her. They put around her a bow and arrows to the side and called her the goddess of the woods. They set around the nymphs as if she was their goddess, the Oreads, Dryads, Naiads, and Nereides, who are still worshipped by the Greeks today and they affirm that they still carry out their respective duties. The moon is the mother of water, she has the power to raise the water in the woods, on the mountains and in the sea and in the springs and to create plants and seeds in the field. She is also called Proserpina. Similarly, Apollo is called with different names depending on the powers attributed to him. Sometimes Sol, Phoebus, Titan and from the place
Virgil: I am brought here, and the island welcomes our weary band into its safe harbor.
Disembarking, we pay homage to the city of Apollo ...
I venerated the temples of the god, built of ancient stone.
To the west, Suda (Syros), so called today, 40 miles in perimeter, once Iaro or gheros, which in Latin is interpreted as senex (old man) or sanus (healthy). On this rock, a certain duke called
Virgil: (Delos) wandering was bound to Mykonos and lofty Gyaros
Very white Paros follows, one of the Cyclades, which was once called Platea from its width. Then Minoa from a city built by king Minos with many buildings. But Pareante (Parias), son of Plutus, who they say, had built the town. He named the island and the town in his name. And it produces a marble so white that those looking from afar think it to be snow. And Carpesus (Mount Marpessa), a mountain higher than the others, with springs of water and flood of rivers. It has a perimeter of 52 miles and to the west there was the city of
A short distance from here is Antiparos and although it is inhabitable, it is not derelict by eagles and falcons. Who could count how many nests are prepared each year when the rocks at that time are not visible, so much is the abundance of birds and nest and presently of eagles which, while they hunt their prey in this place, unless they forced by great hunger, do not eat their prey alone. It collects and deposits in its nests two precious stones, one masculine, one feminine, without which, as Pliny says, it does not conceive. And it deposits agates to protect its chicks from the poison and the bite of snakes but, after it drives them out, it teaches them to hunt. When it sees them catching their prey flying high, it removes itself from their care and in the wintertime, it takes a small bird, which it keeps close between its legs because of the heat but at sunrise, the eagle lets it go unharmed.
Beyond the above mentioned island I found Panagia (Despotiko), almost with the same barrenness and few inhabitants. From pan in Greek, totum (all) in Latin, and ia, sanitas (health), almost all health. On it there was only one church where, as it is imagined, lived a hermit and for his needs used to sail to Paros on a small boat. Now for sure a great multitude of birds lives there all the times. And day and night they fly around the barren rocks crying
Secure among the Cycladic islands there is Naxos (Naxos) with a circumference of 80 miles. Pliny first calls it Strongile in Greek, rotunda in Latin, Ovid Dionysia from the fertility of the vineyards, others little Sicily from the abundance of things and crops. It is the largest of all these islands and on it a very black and hard stone called
Statius:
But now the Laertian bark was threading the winding ways of the Aegean,
while the breezes changed, one for another, the countless Cyclades.
Already Paros and Olearos are hid,
now they skirt lofty Lemnos and behind them Bacchic Naxos is lost to view,
while Samos grows before them; now Delos darkens the deep.
Podia: As it is said, they were once both inhabited and called Podia (Koufonissia). Podia in Greek, pedes (feet) because they present the shape of two feet. The larger was inhabitable with a once fortified castle. Now, however, the people living there moved to Naxos because of the attacks of the barbarians. The first one has a circumference of 6 miles, the second 4.
Raclea (Irakleia) and Hero (Keros) appear as two small and mountainous islands, and quite uncultivated because of the attacks of the Turks, which once, as they say, were inhabited since ruins are visible in some parts. A large herd of goats, which wander everywhere, is found here. They are both small in circumference.
Now tired we seek the port of the island of Nio (Ios). And it is called nio in Greek, in Latin novum (new), or nios which is navalis (naval), since with pleasure and while they run into a storm, they eagerly make sure to reach this port. Its circumference is 40 miles. To the south there is a town built on the top, and from a distance a small valley opens up with a very fertile field and divided in lots is sown by the inhabitants. In the evening after the sunset has come, they ascend with great effort to a very fortified castle, but, when morning comes, they send old women to inspect throughout the island, before dawn, and once they give the signal, they open the doors completely and so they spend their life in fear. Finally, in my time, while a pirate ship was repairing its keel, by divine will the water of the sea swallowed it and was never seen again.
To the north rises the island of Anaphios (Anaphi), from ana in Greek, sine (without) in Latin, and fios serpens (snake), which means without snakes because here no snakes are found and truly if they are brought here, they die immediately. And, what is more, if you take with you some earth from this island and you make a circle around the snake with it, it dies at once. At the extremity of the island there once was a very well fortified city. For this reason the pirates gathered their ships safely near the shore. When for some time they had behaved in this manner, the chiefs from the nearby areas resolved to devastate this city and once the destruction was complete, they built a castle in the middle of the island which stands until today.
Some people called this island Buport (Amorgos). Well cultivated, it has a circumference of 80 miles, completely mountainous and it is now called Amurgospolis. There are three villages: Amurgo), Ialli (Egialia) and
There are two neighbouring islands, Chinera (Kinara) and Levata (Levitha) on which, they say, monks once lived. Now, however, reduced to solitude, remain uncultivated because of the attacks of wicked men and often animals from the nearby islands are openly visible together with wild asses.
We will show now a very high rock of monks (Kandeliousa?) located in the middle of the sea where the island of Coa terminates to the south. Surrounded by very high cliffs on account of its elevation it menaces the surrounding islands. On its top there is a church with a plain. In this place two monks worshipped in safety and they had lifted a small boat with a rope device in order to protect it from the cruel pirates. And night and day without fear they can practice with devout prayers and the established hours and offer libations and pure sacrifices. And while they were carrying out their ceremonies for long time, at night comes a Turk and dressed in garments similar to theirs and alone on a damaged boat says with loud voice: Religious men, for the love of God, take me up, poor me, since a terrible storm at sea has cast our Greek ship on these rocks and nobody escaped but me alone! Moved by pity, they took in their guest Sinon, lifting him up with a rope. At night while they were worshipping inside the church, the traitor closed the door from outside and once he called his comrades hidden near the island, they deported these servants of Christ and their belongings to Turkey.
We come to the island of Choa (Kos), which in Latin means luctus (mourning), because on account of the unsuitable air people weep and languish for many months. It is adjoining to the province of Attica and is called suburban. From east to west it measures 40 miles, and it is mostly plain. To the south we see lofty mountains on which there are the villages
Claros which today is called Calamos (Kalymnos) stands high above considerably with its mountains. Calami in Greek is interpreted as arundo (reed) in Latin. Stretching from north to south, it has a circumference of 40 miles and the height of the mountains is so great that if someone climbs to some high top, when the sun is in the west, he can clearly distinguish all the way to the island of Chios, or the city of Ephesus, or Palatica (Miletus), the city of the Turks. On these mountains, through all the pastures, fleecy sheep which graze aromatic herbs access safely, with no fear of wolves, and yellow goats, destroying the trees, delight in capering on the summit of crags. High to the east there is an old fortress from where stretches in view a small island (Telendos) which appears even today to have been very illustrious for its buildings and who could explain such a number of antiquities and identify the elements of marbles scattered everywhere, when we can see nothing else in it? Then on a bay stands the fortified castle of Calamus (Kalymnos) and to the west near a salty river once opened up the town of Vathi (Vathy) where we saw many buildings. And going west and south at the foot of the mountain or promontory, two excellent ports are visible where there is a big cave and inside it a very rich spring flow regularly and where the aloe plant grows and is considered to be healing in all its parts.
In front of this stands Herro (Leros) a mountainous island rich in marble which to the east has a very well-fortified castle where all the settlers retire at night to stay safe. And to the south there was the port of Lepida where once a town (Paleokastro) stood high on the mountain and at its foot a plain opened up. If you turn to the west, the bay of
We covered Herro (Leros), now we come to Patinos (Patmos) where John, a disciple of Christ, was sent in exile at the time of the emperor Domitian. And at the port, in a certain corner, on a Sunday, seized in the spirit, he saw many and secret things about the present and the future in a vision. And writing the book of the Apocalypse, he revealed to us many things. In that same time, after Domitian died, John was received with great honors in Ephesus today called Altum Locum (High Place, Ayasluk). And while he preached the Christian faith with many miracles, many of his disciples arrived to this island and built a monastery, not far from his oracle, which until today is inhabited by monks. And not suffering any harassment by the Turks, they often go to Turkey for their life sustenance. The island is mountainous with small hills and on it many metal veins are found.
I have reported on Patmos, now we shall reach the small island of Dipsi (Argelousa?). Dipsi in Greek, sitis (thirst) in Latin because it is dry and it lacks in greenery. So it is called Dipsi as it is dry and mountainous and not even the monks ever lived here. A bay is visible on the east and now it appears inhabited by goats and wild asses.
On the other side of this island to the west the island of Crusie (Thymaina?) between Icarea (Icaria) and Patmos is surrounded by low mountains. Around it there are some small rocky islands and it has been abandoned by men for a long time since it appears that in the middle there was a deserted village. Now wild beasts wander at their pleasure and it is called
Varro reports that on this island of Hicarea (Icaria) there was Icarus from Crete and so it is believed to be called Icaria. Offended by the haughtiness of the tyrant, after abandoning his home and his country, he arrived to Italy during the consulship of Brutus who expelled the kings from Rome. The island is quite mountainous and it has a circumference of 80 miles. From east to west it rises in length as the bottom of a ship turn upside down at sea and it slopes downwards at the ends. When the sailors of the Ephesian sea see the summit of this island surrounded by clouds, immediately they rush to find a port since such a sign is taken as a damage of the ships passing by. In the clefts and inaccessible cliffs there are bees which frequent the caverns where they produce honey. Here, adding honey, they also make multiply the white liquor of Bacchus and they send it to the neighboring islands. On its summit, there are two fortified settlements [Koskinas, and to the east, near the sea, on the mountain is visible a very high tower which was called Fanari (Fanari) where, during stormy weather, there used to be a light to save the ships passing by since on the entire island you could not find a port.
This island is called Mandria (Leipsoi), which rises up next to Dipsi, surrounded by rock islets and although it was formerly inhabited, now it has come to solitude. Here with raucous bray wild asses wander around without fear together with countless goats.
Two small islands, barren of houses, rise to the east, called Agathusa (Agathonisi) and Pharmacus (Farmakonisi), which found themselves in front of the river of Palatia. Here more and more often Turkish pirates come roaming until, once they decide which is the best way to take, they depart. The first one has a circumference of 12 miles, the second of four. From here one enters into the mouth of Palatia (Meander) and through the river arrives quickly to the city (Miletus) which took the name from the magnificent palaces. Here a lake grows to its maximum extent in the winter and such a great quantity of fish and eels is found in it that they are sent everywhere. And biremes from here raiding throughout the islands come into the hands of the Knights of Saint John or of the
Not far from the above mentioned islands, at a small distance from mainland there is Samos which at the time of the pagan gods was considered superior in all sacrifices and a great society of philosophers ruled on it. Surrounded by very high mountains, it has a circumference of 80 miles. Elongated from east to west on both sides we find ports with running cold waters. To the south in a plain near the sea there once stood a magnificent city and so many ruins of buildings and of columns are visible which it would be impossible to describe in a single day. Here a great temple of Juno was erected with very high columns, as they say, since an image of her was sculpted nearby as a queen with the scepter and clouds around her head. Iris across, peacocks stood at her feet. And so they are said her birds. Juno is the air and sister and wife of Juppiter, which is fire. Wife because under him and from him receives heat and nourishes the lower parts. Sister because she is close to him. Virgin because from the air nothing comes out and nothing is born. Iris and nymphs because she is born in the air and they, ascending through the foam of the sea, they mix with the air. And thus Neptune was the nurse of Jupiter because he gives him food. From this island was born Pythagoras the famous philosopher who travelled to Babylon to learn about the motion of the stars and to study the origin of the world. He reached the highest knowledge. Policratus (Polycrates), as Valerius (Valerius Maximus) says, was a very cruel tyrant on this island and fortunate in every one of his deeds; he came into the hands of the
To the west near the above mentioned island are the deserted islands called Furni (Fourni) which were never inhabited. They are very dry and surrounded by impassable cliffs. On these islands the ships often seek shelter and safety from the winds without the refreshment of fresh water and with great fear of the Turkish pirates, they spend the night on the watch. Of these islands, the first has a circumference of 2 miles, the second of 3, the third of 10, and the fourth and the fifth of 4. On the largest of them when I was travelling from the area of Rhodes to Chios, on a very dark and cloudy night, once we lowered the sail, and while we believed we were entering into the port, we crashed into the cliffs near the promontory. My hands fell since we were not in any way able to detach the boat from the rocks. When we realized that, we all went ashore and so we spent that stormy night until daybreak. When dawn came, we could not see the boat any more since it had already completely sunk. But after we spent five, six days without food and with only the water that was available in the hollows of the rocks, we arrived to a point where some of us rendered their soul to God. When the seventh day had come, and I could find no plant to eat, I went down into a cave and with a sword I engraved my name on the rock: “Here the priest Cristoforo died of extreme hunger.” After I did this, my recovering fellows hailed a ship that was passing by, and this was the cause of our salvation.
Then we left the port and the deserted islands and through the waves rejoicing we sought the entrance to Tenosa (Oinousses). When we arrived here with great labor, we found antiquities among brambles and ravines. On them because of the excessive gusting of the winds blowing at night, little stones shine on the mountains like sparks and meanwhile the very sweet voices of the winds through the bushes are perceived by the ears of those listening. The island is quite mountainous and has a circumference of 10 miles.
Near Chios to the west there is an island called Psara and it is translated in Latin piscator (fisherman), which measures 12 miles. There was a village and when it became deserted, they abandoned many domestic animals, which have become wild. In front of it there are some rock islets and in the middle of them, there is a port in which a Turkish bireme once came and to remain safe from the ambushes of the Christians during the night, it secretly accessed to another part of the island. [While they were spending the night, Boreas, coming out from a cave, immediately sank their ship into the depth.] The Turks, frightened and wandering through the island, capture wild asses as well as the goats and eating their flesh, they arranged the hides of the beasts in the wind. When they had arrived to the desired number, after they put wooden boards around them, they sat on such a vessel and in the number of 40 they do not desist from quickly sailing to Turkey. When on the third day they arrived eagerly near Thrace, a small ship with six men attacked them and sent them to Tartarus.
After this, we visit the island of Chios which Plinius calls Sarosior and Assansco [he doesn't]. Then it was called Chios, because in Syrian language it is translated as mastix (mastich) and it lies in the Aegean sea 4 miles distant from Asia Minor and we measured it having a circumference of 124 miles. It is also called Chios [κύος] in Greek, pregnant in Latin, or Chion [κίων], column or Chion [κύων], dog. Here Ysiphiles (Hypsipile), Thontis (Thoas)’s daughter, sent her father pretending in front of the
“Straightaway the son of Aegeus, taking Minos' daughter, spread his sails for Chion; and on that shore he cruelly abandoned his companion. To her, deserted and bewailing bitterly, Bacchus brought love and help. And that she might shine among the deathless stars, he sent the crown she wore up to the skies. Through the thin air it flew.” [Ovid, Metamorphoses 8.174-179]
The island lengthwise from north to south is divided in two parts, of which the first which looks towards norths, is called in Greek Apanomerea and in Latin is translated pars suprema (upper part). The second is called Catomerea in Greek, in Latin pars infima (lower part). The first of the two rises up with rough mountains and is supported by pine and plane trees. From these, springs flow through shady valleys and very cold rivers running down to the sea operate mills. Here and there castles and villages are visible on the hills and in the plains. So are visible Volissos with an excellent plain, Perperea (Parparia),
We covered Chios, now the island of Lesbos shows itself and it was so strong in vessels that it was said to have a sea empire. This island is located in the Aegean sea and it is called Mitilena (Mytilene) since Miletus, the son of the Sun and the brother of Pasiphae and the father of Bibli (Byblis) and Camus (Caunus), came here fleeing from Crete after he had revolted against his brother in law, ruled and built the city of Mileta, from which the town was called so. But after, with a change of position of the letters, the town was called Mitilena. Alcaeus the poet freed it from a certain tyrant, Sappho the poetess was from this island and so was the philosopher Theophrastos. Here Pompey about to fight with Caesar in Thessaly left his wife. Here reigned Nicteus (Nycteus), the father of Antiope from whom Jupiter in the form of a satyr conceived Amphion and Cetum (Zethus). Castor and Pollux, after their sister Helen had been captured on the island of Cythaerea, chasing Paris, son of Priamus who had seized her, came all the way to here but because of a violent storm he never showed up. It is said that made immortals,, they were transformed into a zodiac sign which today we remember as the Gemini. Here the apostle Paul coming from Syria, during a tempest barely made it ashore. Preaching the Christian faith, he killed a huge serpent and converted many people. All around its perimeter there are several castles of which Mytilene appears the greatest. It used to be a very powerful city with a perimeter of 4 miles and more and now reduced to a very small space. A pious monk from here predicted the ruin of the city and its ruler and he immediately spoke openly to the citizens about the destruction of the city but the ruler and his men as well as a great number of people not believing not believing him, died in an earthquake. In those days it happened that a lord came through the island and while he was spending the night in a tower, a scorpion bit into his hand. When his servant heard him shouting, they went upstairs to him, seeking a remedy for his pain. The tower was so full of noblemen and servants that it collapsed and the lord with many other people met an unexpected death. To the south of the magnificent city, four columns stand, with many buildings and tunnels constructed with marvellous industry. To the south opens up the gulf of Geremia where many villages are visible to the west, Castel Gera,
I now go on with the island of Tenedos which is located in front of the strait of Romania or Hellespont and is laid out in the Aegean in front of the very ancient Troy and is called so from a certain young boy (Tenes) who defamed in Athens because he had slept with his step-mother, came to this island out of shame and occupied it while it was empty of inhabitants. This island at the time of Laomedon and Priamus was very rich and in its gulf the Greeks prepared the ambushes for the
I think that it will be worth after we arrive until here to show the city of Constantinople so that the spirit of the readers is quick to those things that we are about to say since they are going to see many admirable things. So here is the entrance to the Hellespont as far as a narrow mouth today called strait of Gallipoli. Asia is divided from Europe where first, after we leave on the right, we find on the left a tower which we have noted to have been closer to Asia, and from here as far as the town of Abydos, the way is short. Xerxes the
And so they decided to rush to their deaths and leave their homes and everything else to the flames.
40 miles further on the side of Europe, we saw the very well-fortified town of Gallipoli standing high, which the Emperor of Greece willingly left to the Turkish infidels and married his daughters to them. From this largess there were so many consequences and so many slaughters of Christians that a man could hardly count the written names of all the people captured and killed in his own life time. Therefore the Turks coming into Asia Minor as poor people from the mountains of Armenia and Persia, took control by the consent of the above mentioned emperor. Because of them the province was quickly filled with new languages and people until today. Some of them were very brave in battle and worth of being remembered. They governed the kingdom splendidly accounting to the manner of their sect and with their strength they took many domains from the Christians. One of them, Amurath (Murad I) is spoken of with honor. A woman was once taking a basin of milk to her husband in the field, when a servant of Murad took her food and ate it. The crime was quickly discovered, and he was led before the sultan and cut open in the middle. The milk was recognized, and justice was done before Murad. A certain abbot stole ornaments of the saints and of his church and in front of Murad worshipped Muhammad. The monks from there found out where the abbot had gone and made their complaint before the same emperor. When he discovered the trick and the fraud of the abbot, the treasures were restored to the monks standing before him, and the abbot was thrown down into the depths of the sea from the highest mountain. A plowman found a jar of silver coins under his plow. He loaded it into his cart, took it to Murad, and gave him the money. Murad asked the older men there whose image was on the coins, and recognized no one. He said to the plowman, “Good fellow, this image is not mine, nor one of my ancestors'. Because it does not seem just to take something made by another, or right to seize something from someone else, it is yours. Go in peace.”
To the east at the entrance to the Hellespont there is the island of Marmora. It has a circumference of 30 miles and it is found to be entirely mountainous with marbles and forested with pines. From here Constantine, Justinian and other emperors took away marbles for innumerable buildings in the city of Constantinople and they were loaded on a stone bridge. On the other side there is a town with few inhabitants where some rock islands are present. This sea is also called Hellespont. Helle, daughter of Athamas, with her brother Phrixus, fleeing the treacheries of their stepmother, carried by a golden ram, for her misfortune fell into the waves. Submerged she gave her name to the waves forever which used to be called Pontum before it was called Hellespont. This sea has its beginning from the
Sailing across the above mentioned sea to arrive to the city, the island of Calonimo appears on the right with many mountains. When long ago the Greeks ruled over it, it was inhabited, now it is reduced in solitude and wild animals roam through it.
Near the city appear small islands with some rock islets here and there and because they are near to the city of Constantine, the monks take shelter here where there used to be great buildings, and monasteries are still visible scattered all over. Beyond these islands to the east there was a city called Comedia (Nicomedia) where nothing else is visible but ruined marble buildings. Here a plowman found a chest in which there was a preserved king with a crown, scepter and golden sword. When this was announced to the ruler, and they wanted to extract him from the chest, he was immediately transformed into ashes. From here we go to the city of Nicea and the road appears straight to Bursa, now the capital, where the emperor of the Turks lives with his wives and daughters, although he used to stay in one place only for a short time, always wandering everywhere with his tents.
I arrive to the wounded city of Constantinople and although it is not an island, once we get here, we shall briefly report on it so that it can arrive to the judgement of the readers. It is named after Constantine who greatly expanded it together with Byzantium. In the course of centuries, emperors decorated it with churches and especially Justinian who founded the laws and built Aghia Sophia with a palace and a hippodrome. It has a triangular shape and its circumference is 18 miles. Beginning from the corner by
Outside the church to the south in the square a column 70 cubits high is visible at the top of which there is an equestrian statue of Justinian in bronze . Holding a golden apple with the left hand, he makes a menacing gesture to the east with his right . And nearby appear six great marble columns in a row. Beyond these to the south lies the Hippodrome, which in Latin is the equicursus (horse race track). In this area the nobles jousted before the people, and conducted duels and tournaments. It was 690 brachia long and 124 wide and was constructed on columns, and a cistern of the best water occupies the entire space beneath it. At the top of the Hippodrome were 24 very high columns where the emperor sat with the princes. From one part to another the marble seats of the Hippodrome were graduated in length, where the people sitting could follow the entire sport from their seats. Through the middle of the above mentioned course along its length is a low wall, and toward Hagia Sophia is a church with a magnificent wall, adorned with innumerable windows, where the ladies and young girls enjoyed the spectacles with their governesses. At the beginning of this wall was erected the great bath in which the wounded were placed. Then there is an obelisk 44 cubits high, standing on four bronze cubes and on its base verses sound like this:
"Once it was difficult to conquer me,
but I was ordered to obey the fortunate masters
and to bear the palm of victory over the dead tyrants.
All things give way to Theodosius and to his descendants forever.
In three times ten days I was conquered and tamed.
Under the judge Proclus I was raised to the heavens above."
Beyond this stone monument are three bronze serpents. We saw the serpents with open mouths from which on holidays flowed water, wine, and milk . Nearby among many stones is erected another obelisk of 63 cubits. Finally at the end of the low wall appear four small upright marble columns, on which the empress presided at the festival. Theodosius made all these and many other laudable things in the city.
Today moreover there are found an infinite number of columns of which five marble ones can be seen, and the first is called the column of Justinian. The second is that of the cross. In that place appear four upright columns of porphyry on which had been placed four horses of gilded bronze. The
This island was called Lemnos, but now it is called Stalimini, located in the Aegean sea, all flat and with a circumference of 100 miles. Limini in Greek, lacus (lake) in Latin to which it is dangerous to access because of its lowness. Its gulfs and ports are excellent and many villages are inhabited. One reads that on this island Venus mated with Mars and the Sun revealed the adultery to Vulcan, her husband who bound both of them with iron chains and displayed them while still shamefully embraced in front of the other gods. The women of Lemnos condemning the adultery of Venus, said that she was unworthy and deserved to be overlooked. Venus, offended, sent them the smell of a goat, whence all the women at the instigation of Venus killed all the men. Only Hypsipile, daughter of Thoas, secretly spared her father. She was made queen by the other women. The Argonauts on their way to Colchis invaded the island and Jason, their leader slept with Hypsipile and gave birth to Oeneus and Thoas. When the
To the north there is Embaros in Greek, which in Latin sounds like ambra (amber). It is located in the Aegean sea and it is very mountainous. There are few people on this island which measures 30 miles in circumference and looks toward the point of the mouth of the Hellespont where a city left unfinished by the
We still have to say something about Mandrachi, which (μάνδρα) in Latin is called clausura pecudum (cattle corral). It is quite populated and it is considered flourishing in agriculture, honey and in goats. From here we enter into the Maliakos gulf, where a city (Kavala?) is inhabited, near the river Achelous [Nestos].
The island of Thasos follows which in Latin sounds promitto (promise). It is close to what is called today the holy mountain. It has a circumference of 40 miles and well populated. I have counted three beautiful villages. It is most fertile and it lies in front of the mouth of the very famous river Achelous [Nestos].
After the above mentioned island we found the mountain once called Athos, and although now it is on mainland, at the time of Xerxes, the
Not far from the island of Lemnos in the Aegean sea there is the small and mountainous island of Sanstrati (Agios Efstratios), which the Turks laid waste and in which wild animals live wandering around in all seasons and there seems to have been a settlement without walls. It has a circumference of 15 miles.
In the Aegean sea the island of Limen (Kyra Panagia) appears as a mountain, not very big, but it was once beautiful, and it is not very populated. It has a circumference of 40 miles and it is called Limen from limite (limit) because the ships coming from the city of Thessalonica, make sure to pass by it in a direct line so that they have a safer navigation.
The island called Dromos (Alonissos) follows, in Latin cursus (passage), because the ships sailing from east to west take it as their sign and the citizens often offer a signal to those passing by at night so that they might navigate more safely. It is fertile and has a circumference of 30 miles.
Macri (Peristera) or previously Chalchis is the name of an island in the Aegean sea where few live. On this island Poemidas (Polyxenidas), admiral of the fleet of Antiochus, experienced the attacks of the Roman fleet and was completely defeated, and this island has a circumference of 40 miles. This red letter counts as 1000.
We take two other neighbouring islands which were called Schiati (Skiathos) and Scopuli (Skopelos), in the Aegean sea, of which the first has a circumference of 22 miles, the second 12. Their ruler was of great industry and cleverness. After he sailed to the island of Euboea to pillage it, and everybody had landed, the citizens secretly entered the ships and so all the pirates were killed. This red letter counts as 100.
In front of the aforementioned islands rises an islet called Sanctus Elyas (Skantzoura), which appears higher than the others in all the directions and in whose top stood a small church. And here a monk, serving God, was sleeping in the sun, when an eagle, believing him to be an animal, descended upon him and tore out his eyes with its sharp claws. The monk in terrible suffering was passionately calling on God and Elias came to him and in front of all the fellows, restored his eyes. This red letter counts as 100.
The island of Schiros (Skyros) comes next, which stretches from north to south in the Aegean Sea. It is 80 miles in circumference, it has many ports and it looks toward the Pagasetic gulf . It is thickly wooded and mountainous throughout. Thethys, Achilles’ mother, warned by a prophecy of a seer from Carpathus that her son would die if he would go to the
“At once (Thetis) approached the king and there with the altars as witnesses she said "I present, o king, the sister of our Achilles. Do you not see that she is proud with eyes like her brother? She has begged us to give her weapons and a bow for her shoulder" And since it is thick-wooded and rough there are many large forest animals of all kinds, no wonder since there are few inhabitants and it is large in circumference. Thus the Turks often visit it without fear of the inhabitants. There were four inhabited villages but now only two survive. The red letter counts as 100.
Across from the duchy of Athens, to the north is Euboea now called Grippos (Euripos), which is adjacent to the mainland as a bridge stretches in the middle, with a well fortified tower, under which twice a day there is so much rush of water that, this is amazing, the speed of an arrow to a great depth. At the head of the bridge the city of Egripos (Euripos, Chalkis) spreads out, and it is considered to be fertile in these parts. And Nauplios possessed this island and in revenge for his son Palamedes, who was killed treacherously in the Greek camp by the wiles of Ulixes, he started to tour around Greece and to enter into the palaces of the Greek kings and here with persuasive speeches he urged their wives to commit adultery with whomever they could and so he thought to do this in revenge for his son, since many Greek princes upon their return were killed by the lovers of their wives. Furthermore Nauplios climbed Mount Caphareus, and at night after he lit a torch, the Greeks, coming back from Troy thinking that because of the fire they were entering a safe port to escape from a storm, died on the deadly reefs and so he took revenge for the death of his son Palamedes. On this island shone Orpheus, a very ancient poet who said that there is only one true and great God, who rules everything, and that nothing was born before him, and from him everything was generated and created. Even Gorgias, the philosopher and teacher of Socrates was from this island, who was born in his mother’s coffin, while it was brought to the tomb, all of a sudden the cry of the baby was heard. And he was the first inventor of rhetoric and he reached 100 years and never ceased from his activity and work. Neptune, the father of Nauplios, was also the ruler of this island. It is 100 miles long from east to west and 300 miles in circumference. To the north there is Mount Caphareus where there is the island of Aulis. Here Iphigenia, the daughter of Agamemnon, was destined to be sacrificed to the goddess Diana, who was angry on account of the killing of her deer, in order to obtain favorable winds to sail against the
Christ is called so from the chrism, therefore we Christians are named after Christ because we are anointed with the chrism. And the Greeks have neither chrism nor holy oil except that when a child is baptized, they wrap him in a sheet and they anoint the forehead with salt and oil from the godfather. So let this be the end, after I visited the islands of the entire archipelago in 4 years, with fear and great anxiety. And we arrived to this island of Egina where the head of Saint George is adored, in front of the city of Athens, and here the small boat of our humble navigations safely reached the port of future rest. The red letter counts as 10.
I Cristoforo sent you, reverend Father, a first gift so that the information of all the Cycladic islands would be indicated to you. Now after having further inspected in the various parts, I wanted to send you a second richer description so that when you are tired, you can make your spirit happy with this book. The red letter counts as 10. Praise to the Lord.
The End